Weller’s Bistro: German Cuisine and More

  German cuisine must have a following in northern Utah, given the popularity of Weller’s Bistro, opened almost two years ago in Layton. I may be wrong, but I don’t think there’s been another German-specific restaurant in the Davis/Weber area since Ogden’s Bavarian Chalet in the 1980s-2000s.  

“Ist gut, ja?” That’s owner Jan Weller’s oft-repeated question when you’re trying the food. It’s said so often that the wait staff got the saying printed on the back of their shirts.

  “I’m very excited to bring a part of German culture to Utah,” said Weller, who is from Witten, Germany. “Many Utahns have German ancestors or lived in Germany at some point, and it is an honor for me to bring back some of those memories to my guests.”

   Many Utahns do have German ties — former missionaries for the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, Hill Air Force Base military once stationed in Germany, families with a German heritage, or folks who traveled in Germany and developed a love of German cuisine. And I’m guessing there are also customers who just want to expand their culinary horizons and try something different.

But it’s not necessary to be a German food fan, because Weller’s serves other dishes that aren’t necessarily German.

Weller has around 20 years of experience in high-end cuisine, beginning at age 19 with a three-year apprenticeship in a fine dining German restaurant. He’s worked at the prestigious Savoy Hotel in London, Radisson Hotels, Park City’s Goldener Hirsch Inn and High West Distillery. Along the way, he earned a Bachelor’s degree in Hospitality Management and a Master’s in Business Administration.

   Most recently, he managed two fine dining Promontory Club restaurants in Park City. With his home in Farmington, the long commute was taking its toll, and he had always wanted to open his own restaurant.

He completely revamped the former Gabor Brothers building at 197 Main in Layton.

  “I was looking to create a rustic, yet contemporary space to feature scratch-made quality food, craft cocktails and exceptional service,” he said. He was intrigued when the shuttered Gabor Brothers building became available, as he had frequently eaten at the beloved local pizza and pasta eatery.  

   Weller replaced the building’s quirky, eclectic look with a more understated ambiance.

   “The location was in desperate need of a remodel, but given the prime location on Main Street and intimate and unique layout of the inside, it was worth the investment,” he said. 

  One drawback, though — “This is the smallest kitchen I’ve ever cooked in.”

The top-selling dish is Das Schnitzel ($21) — a pork loin that’s pounded until thin and tender, then parmesan-crusted and pan-fried. It’s accompanied by a choice of three different sauces —savory mushroom, velvety lemon beurre blanc or a robust bell pepper and onion sauce. It’s served with rotkohl (braised red cabbage with apple), and bratfartoffein (sliced Yukon gold potatoes roasted with bits of onion and bacon).

  Weller said that traditional wiener schnitzel uses veal, but the cost of veal would raise the price of the dish substantially. So he went with the pork loin and simply calls it The Schnitzel.

  Other popular dishes are rouladen (slow-cooked beef rolls filled with Dijon, cornichons and speck, a type of ham), and huhnerfrikassee (German chicken fricassee with mushrooms, asparagus, peas and dill rice).). A favorite appetizer is the house-made pretzel with beer cheese and mustard sauce.

   “Personally I love the goulash,” said Weller of the hearty stew of braised beef chunks, served with sauerkraut and spatzle (pasta). “It is my Grandpa’s recipe and I am happy every time I see one leaving the kitchen window.”

 Weller and executive chef Christopher Henry (formerly of Twigs Bistro in Farmington) also offer non-German cuisine. For instance, a refreshing summer salad of arugula, cherry tomatoes, watermelon, feta, pepitas and honey-citrus vinaigrette ($10). Or soy-glazed salmon with lemon butter sauce, vegetable of the day, and dill rice. Or creamy chicken pesto penne with sun-dried tomatoes ($18.50).

  Weekly specials, posted on a chalkboard and the restaurant’s Facebook page, switch things up too.

 “After we opened, we established regulars very rapidly, and we want something new for them to try,” Weller said. “I have one couple who come in twice a week and only order from the specials.”   

   Recent dinner specials were chicken Marsala, served with egg noodles and a side salad, $21; smothered chicken with melted mozzarella, Hollandaise sauce and sauteed mushrooms, $19; red trout almondine, $22; and a 12-ounce New York strip loin steak for $34.

  Four artisan pizzas are on the menu mainly due to “Gertrude,” Weller’s nickname for the massive pizza oven left over from the Gabor Brothers days. “It’s beyond me to figure out how to get it out of the kitchen, so I might as well use it,” Weller said.

   One of the pizzas has a German twist, with white Muenster Cheese sauce, pork and veal bratwurst slices, sauerkraut and whole grain mustard sauce.

  Lunch, brunch and kids meals. Two favorite sandwiches are the Reuben, and the German Dip (a riff on the French Dip, made with sauteed pork tenderloin, with au jus dipping broth).

Recent lunch specials include a Cuban and Cordon Bleu sandwiches, at $12.50.

  Brunch is served on Saturday and Sunday. A recent brunch special, as posted on the FB page, was Caprese Eggs Benedict with fresh Tomato, mozzarella & pancetta OR Banana Bread French Toast w/ Caramel & Candied Pecans.

  The Kinder (children’s) menu includes mac ‘n’ cheese, frankfurter, or mini schnitzel.

Taking the sour out of sauerkraut. I don’t like sauerkraut, partly because of its sharp, sour smell and flavor. (I once helped make sauerkraut while working on a Deseret News story on Providence’s annual Sauerkraut Dinner, but it didn’t change my feelings.) Shredded cabbage fermented with salt, it gets its name from two German words — “sauer” (acid) and “kraut” (cabbage). Weller says the sharp flavor comes from the canning liquid. He rinses off that liquid, cooks the kraut for three-and-a-half hours with flavorings like juniper berries and vegetable stock. The result is more mildly flavored. (Although I have to confess, it’s still not my favorite side dish. I’ll take the Brussels sprouts, thank you.)

Takeout now makes up about 20 percent of the orders, compared with the Covid pandemic shutdown when the restaurant had to pivot to takeout only. But, dining in gives a better overall experience, with the meal elegantly plated on nice china, beverages and thoughtful service.

  Hours are Tues-Sat 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sunday 10 a.m.-8 p.m.  Closed Mondays

Contact information: https://www.facebook.com/wellersbistro; 385-888-9531