Goodwood Barbecue Company: Smokin’ Good Food From Scratch
Goodwood Barbecue Company isn’t your typical down-home barbecue joint. Yes, you’ll find all the staples — pulled pork, brisket, burnt ends, and three kinds of ribs (baby back, St. Louis style, and West Texas beef ribs). Also turkey breast, chicken thighs and German sausage — all smoked with apple wood. (They don’t call it “Goodwood” for nothing.)
But, Goodwood has a more dressed-up ambiance. Old-school barbecue joints are known for a casual vibe, with ordering at the counter and help-yourself service. The Goodwood brand, which has four restaurants (two in Utah; two in Idaho), feels more like a nice steakhouse, with sit-down service.
It’s what Goodwood’s district manager Jake Hayes calls “polished casual.” “We’re blending traditional barbecue with a more upscale atmosphere and great service,” he said.
That’s why it’s popular for business lunches, especially in the Draper location, said Hayes. But even so, it’s not stuffy; you’ll still feel right at home if you come in a T-shirt and shorts.
I recently interviewed Hayes with Lance Gallegos, general manager of the Riverdale location, for a Standard-Examiner story. It’s been 25 years since the original Goodwood restaurant was opened in 1999 in Boise by Steve Cooper and Mike Mantooth, followed by a Meridian, Idaho location in about 2002. The Riverdale, Utah location opened in 2007, and there’s also a location in Draper, Utah.
Cooper and Mantooth both grew up in West Texas. They first met playing high school football for rival high schools. Then they worked together at the now-defunct Steak and Ale restaurant chain, and then with the Chili’s Grill & Bar chain.
Some of the restaurant’s recipes came from Mike Mantooth’s family, including the creamy Mom’s Potato Salad, with bits of sweet pickle. . Mantooth passed away from cancer in 2021, and corporate chef Jered Couch oversees the culinary side of the business, Hayes said.
When Goodwood first opened, barbecue wasn’t as well known in Utah. People often considered “barbecue” the same as “grilling.” But folks from the Barbecue Belt (just about anywhere in the South) will tell you that true barbecue involves slow cooking over low heat with wood or charcoal. This can take anywhere from 8 to 18 hours, depending on the cut of meat. Goodwood stays true to its barbecue roots.
“The quality of our food is number one for us,” Hayes said. “We are a made-from- scratch kitchen.”
Making from-scratch dishes offers way to avoid food waste. The popular Idaho potato skins appetizer is an example.
“We bake the potatoes fresh, and use the insides for our potato salads,” said Gallegos. “Then we used the potato skins for a great appetizer, and they’re very popular.”
The jumbo onion rings are another popular appetizer. They’re buttermilk-battered for a crispy crunch, arranged in a tower and served with ranch dipping sauce.
The smoked prime rib is a signature item that’s only served after 4 p.m.
Salads are pretty popular too.
“Most other restaurants offer oven-roasted prime rib, but ours has a deep smoke ring and it’s very good,” said Hayes. “It’s a limited item, and we run out of it almost every night. People will call and ask if we can hold it for them, but we can’t.”
The smoked turkey is popular year-round, and at Thanksgiving is a huge takeout item.
“Our turkey breast is phenomenal,” said Lance Gallegos, general manager at the Riverdale location. He noted that roasted turkey can often be dry and flavorless, “But anything smoked over low and slow heat is going to be tender and moist. Many people like to order a smoked turkey sandwich.”
There are also several salad options — Southwest chicken; Caesar salad; strawberry, apple, pecan and spinach; crispy chicken; sliced brisket; Cobb; and a bacon blue wedge.
The Southwest chicken salad features shredded, smoky ranchero-sauced chicken over mixed greens and pico de gallo, corn, roasted bell pepper, red onion, cheddar, confetti-like tortilla strips and ranch dressing.
When asked if there are any plans to expand to more locations, Hayes told me, “We are always looking to expand, but we are really particular to make sure we’re proud about what we’re doing. It’s a small company, and we are really picky about the location. for instance, with this store, the big key was Riverdale Road access.”
Utah locations: 4237 S. Riverdale Rd., Riverdale and 133 East 12300 South
Draper, UT 84020
Contact: goodwoodbbq.com
Prices: Salads and sandwiches, $12.99 to $16.99; entrée platters, ribs, and steaks, $17- $35
Open daily from 11 a.m.