WildFin: Fresh Seafood and More at Station Park

As the name implies, WildFin American Grill has a focus on wild-caught, sustainable seafood from the Pacific Northwest. But if you’re not in the mood for seafood, you’ll also find plenty of other options — steak, pork chops, chicken, burgers, salads and pasta.

WildFin opened in November on the northwest side of Station Park’s fountain plaza (where Nino Viejo was located). A few weeks ago when doing a Standard-Examiner story, I talked with general manager Katharine Aronsohn and chef Jason Hammett.

When you think “seafood,” in Utah, you usually think of grilled salmon or fish and chips. Both are popular at WildFin. But there are so many other interesting seafood dishes that will tempt you to branch out.

I became a fan of the Miso Black Cod ($28.95 for lunch; $32.95, dinner). Also known as Alaskan sablefish, black cod is white and mild-flavored. Here, it’s cooked in a miso-maple glaze, and served with spinach and a risotto of chewy grains, and shiitake mushrooms.

“We feature in-season fish that’s not over-fished,” said Hammett, noting that halibut is currently not on the menu. “Halibut will be back in the summer, but you need to give the fish population time to come back.”

There’s a rotating Fresh Catch special that features a seasonal fish for a limited time. In December, mahi-mahi was the Fresh Catch, with the flaky white fish bathed in a silky sauce with browned cauliflower.

Fish and chips, the top-selling menu item, are made with hoki, a sustainable white fish ($22.95, lunch; $27.95, dinner). Other dishes include Trout Dijon, starring Idaho trout. Seared Ahi Salad uses wild line-caught yellowfish.

The Shrimp & Grits ($23.95, lunch; $28.50, dinner) features plump, wild-caught Pacific shrimp. You can also get a starter-size version ($17.95) of this entree, with its smoky, spicy heat and creamy grits. It comes with a hunk of bread, maybe for sopping up all the rich broth.

The shrimp, again are wild-caught, not the farmed shrimp imported from Asia that are usually found in inexpensive restaurants and supermarkets.

That’s why prices run higher at WildFin than those all-you-can-eat shrimp places. (I sprinkled this article with a few prices to give you an idea of how much higher. But I’ve also got some cost-cutting tips at the end of this post.)

WildFin partners with the James Beard Foundation’s Smart Catch program, as well as the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Both provide guidance on environmentally responsible seafood choices. The Monterey Bay Aquarium has a “Seafood Watch” that recommends which seafood to eat or avoid, based on environmental issues, which types are overfished or farmed in ways that harm other marine life, or that have high levels of contaminants.

  “It’s something the clients think about, and it’s what we believe in, so it’s what we do,” said chef Hammett. For customers who aren’t concerned about sustainability, “It’s a great product and it’s delicious, so it caters to both markets.”

WildFin, founded in 2011 in Issaquah, Washington, now has seven locations, most of them in Washington. This is the second Utah location — the first one opened in Riverton.

Each WildFin restaurant uses ingredients and beverages produced in their particular location. In Farmington, the purveyors’ names are listed on the wall, such as Heber Valley Artisan Cheese, Fowers Fruit Ranch in Utah County, Oakdell Egg Farms in Cache Valley, Salt City Baking and sausages from Tooele Valley Meat.

One of Hammett’s personal favorite dishes is the pappardelle pasta with Tooele Valley andouille sausage and mushrooms, laced with truffle oil and heavy cream ($24.95, dinner).

The seafood chowder is creamy and loaded with salmon and white fish. For lunch, it’s offered as a combo where you can choose two of three options: a half-sandwich, a half-size salad, or a small bowl of chowder, for $16.95.

The Harvest Salad changes with what crops are in season. Currently, the mixed greens are laced with cubes of sweet potato and pumpkin seeds. It’s $7.50 when added to an entree order.

The side dishes also change with the seasons. Currently, you’ll find more cauliflower, broccoli, brussels sprouts and sweet potatoes. Come summer, you’ll get more sweet corn, green beans and asparagus.

The fish and chips are one of the top-selling menu items. They are made with hoki, a sustainable white fish.

One of my foodie friends, Janet Thaeler, commented that WildFin really shines with sauces and condiments “that are flavorful and that you can’t get anywhere else.” She loved the fig butter that comes with the bread service, which I haven’t tried. But I trust her judgment, and she says it’s so good that she wanted to eat it straight.

The restaurant makes its own desserts, including the coconut cream pie – a chocolate-coated crust, coconut custard, coconut whipped cream, caramel rum sauce and macadamia nuts ($10.95).

For those who are budget-minded, here are some tips so you can still enjoy WildFin occasionally:

• Lunch dishes are a few dollars less than dinner.
• Costco sells WildFin gift cards, $100 worth for $80.
• Currently, there’s an “early bird” dinner special – three courses for $33, offered from 4-5:30 pm. From a special menu, you can choose an appetizer, entree, and dessert. If you were to order each course separately, you would likely be paying maybe up to $50. A great time to take advantage.
• Sign up for the WildFin eClub, which gives you a free appetizer with purchase of an entree. You’ll also get emails alerting you to specials.